An old wine region in NY shifts to better-quality vines

I strongly believe that while the improvement in wine quality across Eastern North America is laudable and necessary, and while much of this quality improvement is thanks to the vinifera revolution, it remains a mistake to push natives like Catawba, Niagara, Concord, Steuben, etc. to the side for making "unsophisticated wines". The problem for many years has been the deliberate catering to the perceived public sweet tooth. Native labruscas, when not overcropped but given good treatment in the vineyard and winery, can make beautifully elegant, fragrant wines redolent of flowers and candy. A dry, or near-dry Catawba, can be a beautiful wine! The challenge is to institute a re-invention of the labrusca paradigm and to elevate it to something better.

hmmmmm..ok then