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My Check Engine Light is always on. Back in January 2006, I needed to pass the Illinois emissions test. The scan test came up with fault code:P0420 (67)- Catalyst Deterioration. Further testing procedures narrowed the fault to the oxygen sensors. So I had both sensors replaced and it cost me over $400. Shortly aferward, the light came on again. The fault code now was P1491 - EGR valve lift insufficient. So I had this replaced for another $150. I "passed" the emissions test because I paid over $500 to have the emissions "fixed." Of course, soon after I passed the test, the check engine light came on again and I've been driving with it on for the past two years with no problem. Now, I've got another emissions test and really don't want to waste another $500. Anyone know of a solution - it appears that the check engine light is signaling a false positive.
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Our 1998 Honda CRV's engine light came on and the dealer said that the code indicated that the catalytic converter needed to be replaced (CRV had 198k miles). We filled up with Shell gasoline and the light went off. The light went back on with other brands and off again Shell gas. I think that Shell, Chevron and Unocal all have a high level of detergents in all of their gasolines. Shell gas has saved us $1000 for a new cat and allowed the car to easily pass smog in California. Some of the big automakers will only use specific brands of gasoline when they run their cars for federal emissions testing - Shell, Chevron and Unocal are approved brands.
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I had similar problem: check engine light came on. Went to Auto Zone car parts store since all their stores have an OBD II reader behind the counter. If asked they will, FREE OF CHARGE, get the code out of the car's computer (the OBD socket is just to right of steering wheel under dash on my 2000 odyssey). My on-board diagnostics code was a P0420 ("catalytic converter bank 1 not efficient enough... blah, blah, blah"). The Auto Zone people can CLEAR the code if asked. They will warn you that "it will come back" if the fault is hard. It MAY NOT be a hard fault: it may not be the cat converter, it may not be either oxygen sensor, it could be an air leak, it could be bad batch of gasoline, etc. etc.--- all of which may produce a p0420 code. I then immediately did 2 things (based on advice from someone on the net): 1) put triple the amount of usual GASOLINE CONDITIONER into my almost empty gas tank, 2) went to the nearest SUNOCO station and filled up with Ultra 93 gasoline. Have driven some 120 miles so far and no check engine light. This suggests (does not prove) that maybe it was the gasoline I was using recently --- Going back to Shell I guess. Anyway, in the meantime I passed my state inspection. |
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Our "Check Engine" light goes after about 40 miles of driving each time we reset it. PO420 diagnostics code.*Car passed smog pre-check.** Had full tune-up done. Had oxygen sensor #1 replaced. 100K miles on car. We're incredibly frustrated, because we know it can't pass the smog test in CA if the check engine light is on, even if it passes the smog test.
So, Belle Mead Steve, WHAT is the specific gasoline conditioner that you used--brand and type?? Any other suggestions out there?? |
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WHAT BRAND/TYPE OF GASOLINE CONDITIONER, PLEASE? |
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Where is the location of the diagnostic socket for Honda Odyssey 2001?
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i have an 01 odyssey that the light had turn on 80,000 mile. i don't know what is going on? i had reset it and it had turn off and then it had just turn back on.
i did a free check at a local auto zone and it had came on as p1298; electrical load detector circuit high input probable causes; 1.open or short circuit condition 2.failed ecm are those list above a serious thing that could causes the car to do something wrong? do anyone know what it mean> |
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Road trip through TN, filled up car at half tank (98K mi). On way back, filled up at same stop in TN. Now 100% petro in tank (high % of ethanol). Immediately, TCS light and Check Engine Light illuminated. Called Honda repair immediately; they said we could continue driving and it would 'cycle' off after 3 cycles (presumption being several times driving - or is that 3 fill ups, I dunno). Only 17 days prior, the van passed Vehicle Emmissions Testing. Therefore, I don't believe it is due to a bad catalytic converter. Could be oxygen sensors affected due to high ethanol in 89 Octane petro? I may take to Auto Zone, get code, then add a cleaner additive. It is indicated on vehicle and rep advised that light may illuminate if gas cap is not put on correctly. That was not the case with our Odyssey. Suspecting high ethanol in fuel?
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How does one shut it off in a 2001 Honda Odyssey?
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Believe or not, my check engine ligh on problem was fixed by using a bottle of fuel injector/valves cleaner ($8) in gas.
Mine is 2000 Odyssey EX, 100K miles. I tried disconnection of battery to reset the light a couple of times, no good. so before I went on a long trip in summer, I tried the cleaner, the light has not come on since. I always try any possible ways before I bring my car to a dealer. It's slaugter house there. I guess the light went on because some sensors was dirty somewhere?? |
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try a bottle of fuel system cleaner ($8) adding in before refuel. that is how my light stop coming on since. |
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First time do this, please buy the honda manual and the scan tool if you want to keep the van longtime mine is 170,000 miles my light is still on and i am working on it on code p0135 i tested oxyhgen sensors primary and secondary passed now the catalystic and evap setting readyness code. We built the machine so we can fix the machine right? scan tool Actron CP9180 Approx $130 but it works for all vehicles after '96. good luck. |
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if you are the driver, it is right on your right knee. under the dash. it is a connector. i have 2001 odyssey also. |
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What is the best way to Set Readiness Codes for 1-Catalytic Converter Monitor Code and 2-EVAP Leak Monitor Code. Please help.
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