2001 Escape Service Engine light

Having problems with my 01 Escape. The EGR valve has been replaced 3 times and continues to blow holes in the sides of its self? Anyone else with this problem? If so, did you correct it?

my check engine light goes on in my '01 escape whenever i put cheap gas in my car. if i run that pretty much out, then put in a tank full of good gas, the light goes out.

2005 escape XLT two wheel drive. engine bucks between 40 to 60 miles per hour. less noticeable at 70. just today sarted rumbling while stopped at the red light. putting in nutural reduced but not eliminated. Anyone have any ideas?

Ford man wrote:

Having problems with my 01 Escape. The EGR valve has been replaced 3 times and continues to blow holes in the sides of its self? Anyone else with this problem? If so, did you correct it?

My 2002 did the same thing. There is too much pressure building up caused by the catalytic converter being plugged. I run a pipe through the back catalytic converter and that fixed my problem.
When you find out your problem... POST it in this forum. There are too many people who ask a lot of questions but never return to let people know what fixed their problem.

I have a 2005 Ford Escape. Driving home in a bad snow storm the check emissions light came on. We drove home approx. 30 miles with the light on. The light stayed on, the Escape drove very "choppy" and we smelled a very hot smell when we came home. I have driven the car to/from work about 20 miles each day for the last few days and have had no problems.

Any suggestions

Take it to auto zone/Pep boys, etc and have them tell you what the codes were on the check engine light. It doesn't cost anything. Even if it goes out the codes are still stored in the computer, until you take off the battery cable.

This is easy its your catalytic converter! Trust me I about pulled my hair out! What happens is the on plug coil packs go bad and cause you to misfire this inturn pumps unburned fuel into your exaust burning up the fragile comb inside the converter causing it to clog. Your computer will only pick up the main issue of a misfire you can change plugs and coils but wont do any good because that converter is still clogged. With that said your egr valve is the best way to releive the preasure off the engine so it blows out the egr valve! The best way to fix this and cheapest is to do it yourself first find out which cylinders are misfiring more then likely you'll get 1 or 2 codes if it is cylinders 4,5,or6 go ahead and remove the intake manifold and replace plugs and coils then only replace that converter because the other cylinders have no problem there for the converters are probably fine here after repairing rear converter and plugs and coils go ahead and put back together replace egr valve and your done!Now ford is really smart and has gotten good at stiffing people so reset the computer by unplugging battery for 10 minutes before starting this well i guarantee fix your issues P.S dont let anybody tell you your transmission is bad cause its not!

Frank wrote:

I have them same exact problem. Lets start from the beginning. I replaced a exhaust y-pipe a few days ago. I was going on a rode trip. Driving on the highway and the car wouldn't shift (assumed trans was going). Then I heard a hiss and a explosion. The egr blew a hole. It was idling under 500, and couldn't get it over 60. I purchased a new egr valve and was still driving shitty. I had the check engine light checked and they said to much flow in the egr value. So we also replaced the sensor. It was driving better for a few miles. The egr then blew again. I do not know what the problem is. Could anyone help me. I was told by my dealer that the exhaust was the problem but dont want to put much money into the vehicle as I only bought it for 3k. Has anyone else had any exhaust work done to there car. Please let me know. Thanks

I had a code that said my no 3 cyl was misfiring and bank 2 was running rich. Changed the coil, my 3rd one, only to now not have any power. Could not go over 40 MPH

Just before winter i had changed no 2 & 3 coils. The car ran fine. 2 weeks ago I filled up at a different gas station that had gas 25 cents cheaper than all the others. They had just reopened. 2 days ago the car started to run rough. check engine light came on. Codes said #6 misfire. Since I had just put new wires and plugs when I replaced # 2,3 coils. I assumed #6 was bad, so I replaced it. Then I had no power, could not get over 40 and transmission would sift up and down at the slightest touch of accellerator. So I held it to the floor for a secong and a then I heard a small explosion and loud hissing. The side of the EGR blew out. Replaced it, ran okay for 10 miles and again no power, held to the floor again and blew EGR again. Now Im told the catalytic converter is clogged. There are 3 on this piece of crap. I was told to look for discoloration to see which one is bad, they are all discolored. What gets me is that this car has less than 75,000 miles on it. Still looks new. I have also replaced the intake manifold gaskets, throttle position sensor, and a broken wire, in the wiring harness on the firewall. Now my remote start dosent work. Electric lock jammed on passenger and some idiot decided not to put a keyhole on the passenger side. What a bitch to get the door opened and replace 5 cent piece of plastic that broke. then driving down a bumpy road my rear glass fell down on one side. The bolt that goes through the glass had broken. Cd player has had a cd stuck in it for 4 years, its useless. Drivers seat belt retractor dosent retract. I am 69 years old and have owned Fords all my life, but this is my last. Im going to buy a Kia with 100,000 mile warranty. It should outlast me. I have a friend who has a 2005 and hasnt had a problem. Best car I had ever owned 1985 Thunderbird, i owned it for 15 years.

Just goto the auto parts store to put the computer on it for problem. The test was free but the part were $80.00 dollars later. It fixed the problem but save $300.00 if the mechanic had to do it

Chuck, What was wrong with it that cost $80?

Jack wrote:

Just before winter i had changed no 2 & 3 coils. The car ran fine. 2 weeks ago I filled up at a different gas station that had gas 25 cents cheaper than all the others. They had just reopened. 2 days ago the car started to run rough. check engine light came on. Codes said #6 misfire. Since I had just put new wires and plugs when I replaced # 2,3 coils. I assumed #6 was bad, so I replaced it. Then I had no power, could not get over 40 and transmission would sift up and down at the slightest touch of accellerator. So I held it to the floor for a secong and a then I heard a small explosion and loud hissing. The side of the EGR blew out. Replaced it, ran okay for 10 miles and again no power, held to the floor again and blew EGR again. Now Im told the catalytic converter is clogged. There are 3 on this piece of crap. I was told to look for discoloration to see which one is bad, they are all discolored. What gets me is that this car has less than 75,000 miles on it. Still looks new. I have also replaced the intake manifold gaskets, throttle position sensor, and a broken wire, in the wiring harness on the firewall. Now my remote start dosent work. Electric lock jammed on passenger and some idiot decided not to put a keyhole on the passenger side. What a bitch to get the door opened and replace 5 cent piece of plastic that broke. then driving down a bumpy road my rear glass fell down on one side. The bolt that goes through the glass had broken. Cd player has had a cd stuck in it for 4 years, its useless. Drivers seat belt retractor dosent retract. I am 69 years old and have owned Fords all my life, but this is my last. Im going to buy a Kia with 100,000 mile warranty. It should outlast me. I have a friend who has a 2005 and hasnt had a problem. Best car I had ever owned 1985 Thunderbird, i owned it for 15 years.

Same thing happen to me. I bet the rear converter is plugged, even if you can see through it. If you are careful you can cut off the rear converter and run a pipe through it, then just get a connector and put it right back in. Cost you $3 and a little time.

I just recently got financed on a 2001 ford escape after purchasing the car i quickly noticed the check engine light stayed on. And the RPM would not go above 2 no matter what speed im going. I take it back to the dealer and he says nothing is wrong and im just wanting something to be wrong. So today the car starts to overheat and when i pull over to see whats going on water is gushing from under the engine, I cant see where and a lil frustrated as im being financed for this car so I still owe like 5000 more... If anyone has any suggestions please let me know Im a woman and know very lil when it comes to cars.. Thank you

Frank wrote:

I have them same exact problem. Lets start from the beginning. I replaced a exhaust y-pipe a few days ago. I was going on a rode trip. Driving on the highway and the car wouldn't shift (assumed trans was going). Then I heard a hiss and a explosion. The egr blew a hole. It was idling under 500, and couldn't get it over 60. I purchased a new egr valve and was still driving shitty. I had the check engine light checked and they said to much flow in the egr value. So we also replaced the sensor. It was driving better for a few miles. The egr then blew again. I do not know what the problem is. Could anyone help me. I was told by my dealer that the exhaust was the problem but dont want to put much money into the vehicle as I only bought it for 3k. Has anyone else had any exhaust work done to there car. Please let me know. Thanks

Just ran across this. You probably have had it fixed already, but I am sure that either you downstream/last cat convertor is plugged. It may be the resonator or muffler after it, but most llikely the convertor directly behind the Y-pipe. What is happening is that the exhaust is not exiting the rear fast enough and is building extreme heat, and a bit of pressure. It causes the magnesium housing to become lava hot. This heat causes the housing to become very brittle and the increwse in pressure just blows the side out. Today's fuel is crap and doesn't burn properly. This plugs the convertor. Burn non-ethanoo premium only. You will pay more at the pumo, but the fuel milage gained will end up costing you less. I have been experimenting for years.$20 of premium always get's me further than $20 of the other shit. Scientific fact: gasoline= 125,000 BTU/gal Ethanol= 84,600 BTU/gal. It is impossible to get more energy out of a substance that is 33% less efficient per equal volume. It doesn't burn as well and wrecks convertors and will lead to premature engine wear and excess polution. It only burns cleaner under ideal laboratory conditions. Also keep up on replacing you O2 sensors at 60,000 mile intervals. When they get old, the get sluggish and like to read lean conditions telling the computer to lengthen the fuel injector signal dumping more fuel. This creates a rich condition and excess unburned fuel since the air mix doesn't follow and unburned fuel soots the convertor plugged.

Just ran across this. You probably have had it fixed already, but I am sure that either you downstream/last cat convertor is plugged. It may be the resonator or muffler after it, but most llikely the convertor directly behind the Y-pipe. What is happening is that the exhaust is not exiting the rear fast enough and is building extreme heat, and a bit of pressure. It causes the magnesium housing to become lava hot. This heat causes the housing to become very brittle and the increwse in pressure just blows the side out. Today's fuel is crap and doesn't burn properly. This plugs the convertor. Burn non-ethanoo premium only. You will pay more at the pumo, but the fuel milage gained will end up costing you less. I have been experimenting for years. $20 of premium always get's me further than $20 of the other shit. Scientific fact: gasoline= 125,000 BTU/gal Ethanol= 84,600 BTU/gal. It is impossible to get more energy out of a substance that is 33% less efficient per equal volume. It doesn't burn as well and wrecks convertors and will lead to premature engine wear and excess polution. It only burns cleaner under ideal laboratory conditions. Also keep up on replacing you O2 sensors at 60,000 mile intervals. When they get old, the get sluggish and like to read lean conditions telling the computer to lengthen the fuel injector signal dumping more fuel. This creates a rich condition and excess unburned fuel since the air mix doesn't follow and unburned fuel soots the convertor plugged.

John C wrote:

I have a 2001 Escape. A couple of weeks ago it blew out the side of the egr valve. I had a test run and identified the problem as the middle converter. I've replaced the EGR valve, converter, plugs, and two ignition coils. It's now slow to shift thru gears and at 70 mph it down shifts and looses power. Got any idea what the cause of this problem might be.

Yes John daughters 01 escape did same thing the cataylitic converter is mounted inside the exhast manifolds not the converter plugs you have to replace the exhast manifolds some mooron at ford thought it would be a great idea to put the cataylitic converter inside exhast manifolds so every time the converter goes bad front or rear bank or left or right if you choose ,then just replace the entire exhast manifold at 500$ each not counting on labor.When converter clogs up the EGR is directly in line with the back pressure and it will blow a hole in the
EGR valve . I did it myself I hate ford they continue to enginer stuff like the nazis .
Theyd bring in a doctor to look at the torture victim to see in what way they could make the torture more effective by doing this or that .Ford thinks just like that.They are stupid I hope they go out of business and whoever is in charge of enginnering gets hit by one of there cars as a pedestrian

down shifts and looses power. Got any idea what the cause of this problem might be.
Yes John daughters 01 escape did same thing the cataylitic converter is mounted inside the exhast manifolds not the converter plugs you have to replace the exhast manifolds some mooron at ford thought it would be a great idea to put the cataylitic converter inside exhast manifolds so every time the converter goes bad front or rear bank or left or right if you choose ,then just replace the entire exhast manifold at 500$ each not counting on labor.When converter clogs up the EGR is directly in line with the back pressure and it will blow a hole in the
EGR valve . I did it myself I hate ford they continue to enginer stuff like the nazis .
Theyd bring in a doctor to look at the torture victim to see in what way they could make the torture more effective by doing this or that .Ford thinks just like that.They are stupid I hope they go out of business and whoever is in charge of enginnering gets hit by one of there cars as a pedestrian